Part 2 - Early Sept – mid Sept, 2025 – Madrid, Spain; Toledo, Spain; Valencia, Spain

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Madrid

Madrid Street Musicians

Conveniently, the train station in Vigo is located in a shopping mall.  It appears different than when we arrived a few days earlier because our trip back to Madrid is during mall business hours.  The train departs empty, but by the third stop is full of passengers.  Our train ride from Vigo back to Madrid is uneventful. 

Our apartment in Madrid is comfortable with mini-split air conditioning in each bedroom and the living area, a necessity with the warm temperatures of mid-September.  We can’t imagine what it must feel like in the peak of summer.

We visit with one of Nicida’s friends from school, and her husband.  He has lived here for many years, consequently he is a treasure trove of Spanish and Madrid history.  He reveals many local stories of people and places.  More than one time on this evening’s walking tour we are welcomed into an establishment like old friends.

Mercado De San Miguel
delicacies

More delicacies

Neptune Fountain

Stopping for dinner, I have the opportunity to have ox tail in a wine sauce.  I have visions of ox tail, none of which are close to the reality of the flavorful, meaty meal.  It is something I would order again.  From there we stop in a bar/restaurant for coffee.  Based on a recommendation, I have a licorice flavored liqueur.  Its flavor reminds me of the Greek liqueur, Ouzo.  We continue our tour, hearing more stories of people and places.  We part, they to the train, returning home.  We walk a few blocks to our apartment.

The next morning, I wake with a headache, in no condition to tour Madrid.  I have a theory that it was either the Ox tail in wine sauce or the licorice flavored drink.  I will let you decide.  I eat a bit then go back to bed for a 2-hour nap, waking, ready to go.  We take the bus tour of Madrid.  We see lots of green-space along the main streets, fountain filled plazas, and numerous buildings built between the 1600’s and 2000’s.  Traffic is horrendous, streets are narrow, packed with motorcycles, cars, trucks and other buses.  Lane markers are only suggestions, everybody swerves from one lane to the next, then back again to gain a few extra meters in the slow-moving lines of traffic.  Amazingly, even with this type of driving, we did not see any accidents during our entire trip in Europe.

Churros and Chocolate
Mmmm

From our bus tour we catch a taxi to take us to Real Madrid’s home soccer stadium for a few selfies.  We meet one of Nicida’s cousins for lunch whom she hasn’t seen in 30+ years.  After lunch she gives us a walking tour of Madrid; the Plaza Espańa, Puerta del Sol, the King’s Castle, and Plaza Cervantes, to name a few.

We return to our apartment.  Our Apple watch tells us today we walked 17,000 steps.  Today’s hospital roll call; hip, knee, toe/foot, shoulder/back.

Our first goal today is to find post cards and a post office to purchase overseas stamps enabling us to send the post cards to family members back in the States.  More than once, the postal employee had to look up the cost of such stamps.  We have taken to sending post cards on our later trips, mainly to Nicida’s kids and my mom.  Each of them appreciates the personal mail, instead of the usual junk mail, or bills.  Give it a try, I’m certain whoever you send them to will appreciate the thought.

                                         Madrid street performers

Palacio de Cibeles

We meet up with Nicida’s friends again for snacks on the top floor of a department store.  We enjoy exclusive food and drinks while looking out on Madrid.  From there we walk to the Palacio de Cibeles for different view of Madrid from the top floor of another building.  This evening, I take Nícida to be with her school girlfriends for the next couple days.

The next morning, I am off to the Prado, Madrid’s answer to the Louvre.  I have a ticket with a headphone driven audio guide.  The museum is packed.  I follow the map finding the first several pieces without any problem.  Museum volunteers have to constantly shush the visitors as the volume of voices grows to hear what each other is saying.  Paintings go from 1’ x 2’ to life-size and larger.  Many of the earlier paintings are based on Biblical stories.  Next are portraits first of important people then later, ordinary people, there are even a few landscapes. Having trouble with the audio guide, I walk through the remaining museum before exiting to meet Nicida’s sister and partner for lunch.  On our way, we notice a church with some activity.  We enter, discovering people preparing for a wedding.  We stay in the back observing the bridal march and the start of the service before exiting.  Outside, we spot a Rolls Royce waiting for the bridal couple.  

Freshly sliced ham

On our way back to our apartment we stop at a bouqueria for a custom-made ham sandwich.  We witness the butcher carve paper-thin slices of ham from a prepared rear leg of a pig.

The next day we plan a walking tour off in a different direction of Madrid, towards Plaza Colon.  On the way, streets are barricaded, with a multitude of police, The Celebration of Exercise is happening today.  The barricades form lanes for bike routes.  As we approach, it is the kids turn for a 6 km ride.  We stop to take in the activity.  I photograph the kids starting out, some concentrating on their ride, others enjoying it.  Once they are past, we continue up the street stopping at Plaza Colon.  We find, by accident, an exposition of the 100^th anniversary of Leica.  On display are 100 defining images made with Leica cameras.

We return to our apartment, changing our clothing to attend a flamenco dance show this evening.  On our walk to the show, we find barricades are in place for another bike race occurring the same time we are going to the show.  Unfortunately for us, the venue is on the other side of the barricades.  We have to walk 7 – 8 blocks before we find an opening in the barricade allowing us to get to the other side.  We catch up with Nícida and her group only a few minutes before the start of the show.

Royal Palace of Madrid

The performance is astounding.  The main dancer taps her toe, then heel, toe, heel in such rapid succession the taps sound like a high-speed machine making parts in a factory.  The musicians behind her are equally amazing with their violin, guitar, and singing talents.  They pour their feelings into whatever they are doing.

The barricades are all removed as we head back to our apartment.  The plazas and streets are filled with locals and tourists enjoying the evening.  Tomorrow on to Toledo.

Toledo

Toledo train station

We have a 20-minute walk to the Atocha train station.  We meet everyone then set off for the train, waiting for the announcement for the track we will be departing from.  We only have a 20-minute train ride to Toledo.  The Toledo train station is an ornate 1900’s brick building.  Old town Toledo is on a hilltop with church steeples and fortress spires towering above the town.  It is surrounded on three sides by the Tagus River.  Our tour bus takes us through the thick walls that protected Toledo from attacks in earlier centuries.

Toledo and the Tagus River

Catedral Primada
de Toledo

With the exception of one to two streets for the buses, the old town streets are narrow.  Pedestrians and small delivery vehicles share the streets.  We step out of the way for the trucks.  Trucks stop for organized group tours to pass.  We learn that many of the museums are closed today, Monday.  Catedral Primada de Toledo is open.  Construction started in 1226 and ended in 1493.  It is huge, several times larger and taller than any of the churches we have visited up to this point.  It takes us over an hour to see the crypts, different sets of pipes making up the pipe organ, stained glass windows and small alcoves for saints.

Catedral Primada de Toledo

As the day wears on the temperature climbs into the 90’s.  We take the tour bus again to give us a break from the heat, catch information we missed the first time, and be able to enjoy the views of Toledo from outside the town.  We enjoy our train ride back to Madrid returning to our apartment, packing for our next stop on our trip, Valencia.

Valencia

We wake early for our next train ride, to Valencia.  Our apartment is a 20-minute walk from the Atocha train station, the same station we used yesterday to visit Toledo.

Sculpture from the
Silk Exchange

Today the train is late.  The crowd grows, waiting for the track announcement.  I notice the cleaning crews assembling, patiently waiting for their appointed arrival. Nervous tension grows as the once empty station seats fill, those left standing, hover, waiting for someone to vacate their seat.  The seats don’t get a chance to cool down before being occupied again.

This train is full from the start.  We pass more brown, parched field of sunflowers.  The once glowing faces are wilted, facing down like overburdened people making their last steps home.

We arrive to an open-air train station.  We instantly notice the warm humid environment.  Valencia is on the Southeast coast of Spain, facing the Mediterranean Sea.  To our dismay we learn that there is a one Euro charge to use the station’s restrooms.  Fortunately, we have coins in our pockets. 

Mercado

We take a cab to Nicida’s brother’s apartment, we visit with him, his wife, and her mother.  Working up an appetite, from all the visiting we walk to a local restaurant owned by a Venezuelan couple.  We enjoy their meals, fish with roasted vegetables.  We head to our apartment meeting the owner. 
This is a two-bedroom, two bath, with a full kitchen, and washer/dryer.  The building was built in the 1940’s.  It has hexagon shaped concrete floor tile in the living/dining room.  We are happy with the upgrade of air conditioning in the living room and bedroom.  The apartment is conveniently located within walking distance of the science park.  After unpacking, we head out to a local grocery store stocking up on the usual staples for breakfast and light dinners.  Later Nicida’s brother and family stop by to see our apartment before heading out for a light dinner with more visiting and discussing plans for our next few days while in town.

The next morning Nicida and I take the Valencia hop-on hop-off bus tour.  We ride all the way, making notes of what we want to see.  There are many stops along the way featuring the port and associated Mediterranean beaches catching our eyes.  We get off near the Fallas Museum.  

Ninot from
winning Fallas

Fallas is a feast celebrating St. Joseph in Valencia.  A part of the celebration is erecting Fallas 30 – 40’ tall monuments based on a theme selected by a group of Valencia artists.  The monuments themselves are made of wood, wax, cloth, and lately polystyrene.  Monument building is enjoyed by many; recent count of monuments is close to 800.  Each is built in each neighborhood of Valencia.  Ninots are a part of the Fallas, what I see at the museum are 5-8’ tall ninots from the Fallas theme for each year from the 1930’s.  They are judged by the public with the best one pardoned from the fire consuming the other ninots and Fallas monuments.  Along with the monuments/ninots are associated lights, food, fireworks, and general celebrating.  On Marh 19^th to celebrate the first day of spring, rest of the winning Falla and all the other Fallas become separate, neighborhood bonfires, all 800 of them, as part of the celebration.  The entire physical activity of building, assembling, celebrating take 2 – 3 weeks, streets are blocked off for the activity.  With the ceremonial burning complete, by the next day, everything returns to normal, streets are cleaned, lights taken down, food eaten, and plans for next year’s Fallas are started.  This has been celebrated for over the past 75 years.  Valencia may be making our list of places to go in March of any given year to take in this spectacle.

After lunch, we ride the public bus to one of the many beaches.  It looks like volleyball heaven.  The line of nets with games going on is endless.  Walking a bit further we find just as many nets set up with volleyball classes.  Instructors demonstrate hitting the ball with your head, off your chest, and kicking; today’s practice.

Science Center

Returning to the apartment we see evening over the Science Center.  The colors and reflections are wonderful.  Nicida and I plan to visit again tomorrow catching a sunset.

We start our day with the search for another post office.  We have to mail our Madrid post cards.  We find one along our hike towards the downtown area to the Hortense Art Museum.  This is a private museum of many different types of modern art by current artists; glass, fiber, optical, and mediums some I cannot describe. It is well worth a visit.

Valencia Paella

This afternoon we are getting together with the family to enjoy Valencia Paella.  I am told it is famous, the original, the best….  Four of us order the paella.  We eagerly wait for our lunch.  Finally, it comes in a flat bottom pan, 24” I diameter.  We dig out our servings, there is plenty to go around, rice, lima beans, green beans, snails, chicken, rabbit.  It is different from my paella recipe, but very good.  I am not certain where I will find snails, and rabbit for Valencia paella in TX.

Full from our meal, we head back into town.  We visit various places, with Nicida and I heading for the Science center just before sunset.  We walk the grounds finding light and shadow across the buildings, and reflections across the pools.  Another beautiful day.

Basilica of Saint Nicholas

The next morning, we head back into the downtown area, relying on Google maps, along with printed directions, to get us to our destination.  Google maps loses accuracy once we enter the canyons of downtown.  The tall buildings block signal and/or bounce the signals from building to building confusing Google.  Today’s excursion is to the Basilica of Saint Nicholas.  

It is known for its Baroque interior, and frescoes covering the walls, arches and ceilings.  Each hour the church lights dim for a light show.  Light beams dance across the frescoes with narrators telling stories.  We arrive just after the start, enjoying the show.  The crowd cheers as the show finishes.  The church is packed.  Once the lighting comes up we marvel at the quantity, the color and detail of the Biblical based frescoes.  It is truly something to see.

Fresco

Silk Exchange

From there we walk to La Lonja de la Seda de Valencia – the Silk Exchange.  This series of buildings was originally built between 1483 and 1533.  Originally silk was traded, but it has always been a center for commerce.  It was made a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1996.  The interiors of each building are different; tall winding columns in one, small figures covered with gold leaf in another, ornate wood box-like structures making up the ceiling of the third.

Overall ceiling of
wood box-like structures

Close-up of
wood box-like structures

Continuing our discovery of Valencia we come across the central market.  We plan on enjoying a lunch of appetizers but find that the items here are more of a take home, prepare it at home, fare.  Still hungry, we come to a plaza filled with many restaurants with lots of enticing meals to choose from.

After a wonderful lunch we head back to our apartment to pack for tomorrow’s trip back to Madrid.

 

Thank you for stopping by,

Mark