Sunday, August 21, 2016

Virgin Mesa, August 6, 2016

Click on any image for a larger view

I have to dig through my files from the book ‘Hiking Adventures in Northern New Mexico’ for a new place to hike.  I feel I’m under pressure to find something new and different for my experienced hiking partners Becca and Laurie.  The book has descriptions of many trails and a CD which has routes and waypoints for each of the trails.  It is a bit dated; last published in 2006, but I have found a number of trails that I was not aware of.  Today’s hike is one of those.

The Virgin Mesa forms the west ‘wall’ running parallel to NM 4 from just south of Jemez Springs to La Cueva.  The mesa top is approximately 1,500’ above the road.  The mesa was logged in the early 1900’s which is the reason for the Gilman Tunnels along the Rio Guadalupe.
Virgin Mesa from Battleship Rock

I have been on NM 4 many times on my way to hiking, fishing and photography trips.  Being a passenger I was always amazed at the rock formations and hoodoos that make up the edges of the mesa.  I also see Jemez Springs; (slow down to 25), the Hummingbird Music Camp, Battleship Rock and various pullouts for picnickers and fishermen.

I have stopped at Battleship Rock a few times on fishing and photography expeditions.  It is quite impressive, almost 200’ to the top.  It is aptly named; the leading edge looking like prow of a battleship.

We pass it again today noting that there are quite a number of picnickers there already.  We continue on to our turnoff at La Cueva which also has quite a number of vehicles parked by the local store.  It had rained the day before, but good weather is promised for today.  After several miles of NM 126 we find our turnoff on to FR 376.  Many campers occupy campsites along the road.  I pull out my GPS watching for waypoints telling me where to make the next turn.

The rains from the past few days make the ground a rich dark brown.  At this elevation the morning is damp and cool.  Even with the windows closed we notice the pines trees giving off their scent and quickly open the windows to take it in.  The rain in this instance is not all good.  The roads for the most part are only damp but there are many pools over parts of the road obstructing our way.  Each time we go through a pool we feel the car slip just a little before emerging on the other side.  We are in a SUV but I forgot to ask if it has four wheel drive.


We arrive at a guardrail slowing down to see what it is protecting us from.  We are above the town of La Cueva, and the view is astounding.  The west side of the Valles Caldera is on the other side of the valley.  We can see the road we were driving on 20 minutes ago.  You can also see a number of homes nestled in the small canyons not visible from the main road.

We continue on; the road has rough rocky areas where the incline is steep but passable.  Laurie weaves from side to side to keep the oil pan from scraping bottom.  Once the road levels out the pools reappear.

After a few miles we find the trailhead.  Nobody else is around.  We occasionally hear 4 wheelers in the distance but nothing else.  The forest scent still lingers, the ground gives underfoot, damp but not wet.  Aspen leaves are still holding on to the last few drops of rain water.  The small shaded pines are doing the same.

After a half mile we break from the trail heading to the ridgeline of the mesa.  We come out to a breathtaking view of the Jemez valley opposite Battleship Rock.

Perspective

As I mentioned earlier I am impressed by Battleship Rock.  From the perspective of the Virgin Mesa it is just another rock outcropping; a battleship from above the deck.  One of my hiking partners said “It resembles a piece of pie or a piece of pizza”.  A deep dish pizza if you ask me.





The 180° view up and down the valley is almost endless.  Redondo peak and other peaks of the Valles Caldera form the horizon to the north.  To the south you can see the valley alter its path east and west as it passes Jemez Springs and on to Jemez Pueblo.  We are high enough to see the Sandias and I’m guessing South Baldy near Socorro.

We hike a short distance to a point overlooking the valley.  Becca takes off first while I hang back deciding if this is something I really want to do.  As she gets closer to the point I get an image of her looking out at the view.  Having Becca in the image gives a sense of scale to the scene.  I decide then I also have to take in the view.

My normal everyday hiking steps are now uncertain.  Every footfall is studied before I take that step.  The ‘trail’ exists in my own mind.  The horizontal flat part of the trail is probably six feet wide at its widest, narrowing as I approach the point.  A little off the flat part is okay; you just want to make sure your boot doesn’t slip and the rock is firmly anchored in its spot.  The farther away you get from the flat means a steeper slope, with the bottom about 100’ below… I won’t explain further.  At the point you have almost a 360° view of the area, well worth the trepidation.  We look for points we recognize and try to figure out those we don’t.  We see hawks and turkey buzzards soaring above and at eye level probably assessing if we will make it back to the mesa in one piece.

Now back to the mesa…

The trip back is just as distressing, I breathe a sigh of relief with more solid ground underfoot.

There is no real trail here.  We follow along the ridge stopping occasionally to take in the ever changing view of the valley.  We spot potential foundations of structures from long ago.  They must be manmade as the piles of rocks form right angles.

Laurie spots a point we set as our goal for the day.  We have to hold her to it; she always wants to go to the next point or over the next ridge.  My GPS says we have hiked about two miles along the mesa before we stop for lunch.  The clouds are building to the southwest.  With the possibility of rain enlarging the pools on the road we decide to save the next part of the mesa for another day.






Studying the GPS we hike a few hundred yards of a logged meadow to the forest road that we took up here.  As we walk along the road only one pickup truck, bed filled to the roof with firewood, crawls past us.  It looks like they are preparing for a long cold winter.

We arrive at the car 20 minutes later, no rain in sight, for our return trip.

It was a good day.

Thank you for stopping by,

Mark

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