Saturday, May 18, 2019

Southwest trip - early to mid April 2019 (Grand Staircase Escalante NM, Bryce Canyon NP, Utah Scenic Byway 12)




Grand Staircase Escalante National Monument (GSENM)

Bryce Canyon NP
Our next stop is Kodachrome Basin State Park.  We have had many people ask us why we are not visiting Zion NP if we are going to Bryce Canyon NP.  I have read about Staircase Escalante National Monument, the geology is unbelievable in this area.  Cottonwood Canyon Road takes us through a portion of GSENM allowing us to see drastic uplifts of the surrounding terrain.  Cottonwood Canyon road is 40 miles of gravel and graded dirt road before arriving at Kodachrome Basin State Park.  The only gotcha’s are it has to be dry, and high-clearance vehicles are suggested.  We have both requirements covered.  Visiting the BLM visitor center for GSENM helps us make our decision.













This area has quite a number of dinosaur fossils in addition to the unique geology.  ‘Geology Road Guide – Cottonwood Canyon’ purchased at the GSENM visitor center provides a mile by mile description of the geology of the area; along the road in particular.  The geology at the start is somewhat normal; after a few miles it starts changing with distinct layers of stone appearing along the route: Navajo Sandstone, Carmel Formation,  Entrada Formation, Henriville Sandstone, Dakota Formation and Tropic Shale from bottom to top.  Cottonwood Canyon road follows a portion of a fault where one side of the fault uplifted.  Distinct layers appear on each side of the road.  Land uplift and continued erosion of layers is apparent everywhere.
We easily see huge sections of terrain tilted at different angles, some almost vertical.  We marvel at the immensity of the event(s) that must have happened to make these formations.  Prior to arriving at Kodachrome Basin SP we stop to hike Cottonwood Narrows trail; a sandstone slot canyon.  A few miles further we detour to see Grosvenor Arch; a double sandstone arch.  After several hours of stopping, shooting, being awed, and reading what happened we arrive at Kodachrome Basin SP.  Do this trip.

Grosvenor Arch
Grosvenor Arch


Minerals within
the sandstone
Tenacious Paintbrush 



Kodachrome Basin State Park

Kodachrome Basin SP is a part of GSENM, just another portion of the layers we encountered on our drive.  There are over 60 vertical monolithic tone spires called sedimentary pipes within the park.




Several theories have been written to explain the vertical stone pipes but no one is certain.  Carmel sandstone occupies the lower portion of the park while Navajo sandstone forms a tall backwall partially surrounding the park.  The colors and formations are equally astounding.








Our first morning we were greeted with a sun halo.  The halo is formed by hexagonal ice crystals in the cirrostratus clouds refracting sunlight.

Sun halo









Bryce Canyon

We keep climbing as we have driven from Page, AZ; 4,000’ to Bryce; 7,800 – 9,000’.  This takes us up another layer in the geological cake.  The Claron formation, limestone, somewhat pink in color.  The limestone ‘hats’ actually protect the spires of the sandstone formations from eroding; but rain, ice and wind find ways to erode the bases of the ‘hoodoos’ making up Bryce Canyon.

It is much cooler here; overnight lows in the upper 20’s.  We are warned to disconnect the water lines to keep them from freezing.  The campground has large piles of snow from plowing roads and clearing campsites.  One of the park guides tells us they experienced 14’ of snow in the National Park.  Last year they had no snow the entire winter.  The higher end of the park is still closed due to snow, over 5’ on the road, they hope to have it cleared sometime in May.  Some of the trails are also closed for the same reason.
We are staying at an RV park outside Bryce Canyon.  We drive into the national park for a quick look, stopping at the 100% solar powered visitor center.  The park rangers are busy taking care of visitor’s questions regarding what is open and what is not.  The north end, the lower end of the park, is open but as the park heads south, over 18 miles, it ascends to over 9,000’ where snow is still deep and not melting any time soon.  Several of the trails in the ‘amphitheater’ are closed for the same reason.  We listen to ranger’s descriptions noting hikes we are interested in.  The visitor center buzzes with display activity; movies, interactive displays and general reading information.  We spend over two hours there over a couple of visits.

We drive to Bryce’s North Campground to see what the campground looks like.  Most of it is closed due to the same snow the rest of the park experienced.  One loop is open, and is full of campers.

Sunrise Point is spectacular, a term I will be using over and over as I talk about Bryce.  We leave the park excited to return.  Bryce is only 3 miles from our campsite so visiting is convenient.  Food shopping is not convenient.  Bring whatever you plan on eating.  The grocery store is part of the campground/hotel complex of Ruby’s Inn so the grocery selection may be compared to a deluxe 7-11.  A limited number of items and fairly pricey.

Bryce Canyon NP has a shuttle system ferrying people into the park, stopping at the visitor center and each of the view points.  Visitors can jump on and off as they want, buses come about every 10 – 15 minutes.  It stops at several locations outside the park near campgrounds and hotels eliminating the need or want to drive into the park itself.  The first day it seemed convenient but the remaining days it was necessary with the amount of people coming to the park; parking is at a premium.  I can only guess how crowded this park gets during the summer, now it is only the middle of April.



We try out the shuttle getting on and off at several different stops hiking between a couple before returning to our camp site.  The hike between Inspiration Point and Sunset Point is spectacular.  We take our time, shooting about every 50’ of the rim trail running between the two Points.

The next day I have to go to the Panguitch clinic, my cough is not getting any better, Nicida’s cough is worsening but she does not want to visit the clinic, her coughing is not nearly as bad as mine.  Congestion and coughing only slows down our hiking plans.  Loaded with nasal spray, antibiotics and cough medicine we are ready to continue our trip.  We take advantage of being in Panguitch by hitting the local grocery store filling out our list of fresh fruits and vegetables not available at the campground ‘grocery’ store.

The Queen of
Queen's Garden Trail
Back in Bryce Canyon we hike the Queen’s Garden Trail.  There is a 600’ elevation change from the rim to the garden. Hundred’s of people are hiking it, we have to stop to let people pass and others have to stop to let us pass in the narrow sections of the trail.  This trail one one of those where you start at the top with an easy hike down, then you get to hike back up...  Most people coming back are huffing and puffing.  Some look like they are questioning themselves on the decision they made to go down in the first place.


We get to see the hoodoos from a whole different perspective; eye level and much closer than from the rim trail.  By the time we get close to the bottom we are doing more looking up than down.  We hike even further down the Navajo Loop Trail but it is closed so we only do a small portion seeing even more spectacular views.














The wind is cold this evening so we pack it in early working on our respective projects; Nicida her photos and me on my blog.

Bryce Point
The Rainbow Point bus tour operated by the park service is next on our agenda.  It is a 3.5 hour tour stopping at many of the scenic viewpoints.  We learn about the flora, fauna and history of the park.  Our guide fills in details of the sights in and around the park at each of the view points.  Reservations are necessary to take this trip, highly recommended.

Natural Bridge
The next morning we wake to heavy frost on the windshield.  Whatever puddles in the road and parking area are frozen.  The good point is; the sun is out.  We pack and start on our way to Escalante, UT; a 50+ mile drive.  We like these short drives between locations.  The Mossy Cave hike is outside the immediate Bryce Canyon park area, along Utah Scenic Byway 12.  The cave has several stalactites of ice, and dripping water from the moss in other parts of the cave.  A waterfall is running heavily as this is part of a water diversion project for local people from late in the 1800’s.  The red/orange hoodoos surround us reminding us of the Queen’s Garden trail hiked two days earlier.
Mossy Cave













Utah Scenic Byway 12 (USB12)

View of USB12
This is a scenic road that must be driven.  The west end starts off Hwy 89 between Hatch, UT and Panguitch, UT, west of Bryce Canyon.  The eastern end is at Torrey, UT 124 miles away, near Capitol Reef NP.  



The scenery is spectacular.  We notice changes in the layers of sandstone after having studied them while we were in Grand Staircase Escalante NM.  Scenery varies between sandstone and juniper/pinion open forest during our drive.  Approaching the town of Escalante from the west the area opens to wide canyons.  A side trip down Hole in the Rock Road for 12 of the 50+ miles to ‘Hole in the Rock’ takes us to Devils Garden, a hoodoo filled area.
Devil's Garden

Devil's Garden





Devil's Garden
Passing Escalante to the east the terrain changes from pinion/juniper forest to bare sandstone formations.  USB12 winds in and around the formations for miles.  There are many places to pull off the road so everyone can enjoy the views.  A little further on the road climbs up on the Hogback.  It was a bit unnerving driving this seeing the road fall off on both sides – a steep fall off.  You have to pay attention, especially when big trucks or RVs are coming your way.




We stop in Boulder to visit Anasazi State Park.  There is an indoor museum and outdoor ruins of the Ancestral Puebloan Indians that lived here 900+ years ago.  Boulder is also where we get off Hwy 12 taking the Burr Trail Road and Notom/Bulfrog Trail into Capitol Reef NP.

Nicida finally decides to see a doctor.  We squeeze in an appointment between hikes.  This doctor's diagnosis is that Nicida has the flu; sore throat, coughing, sinus congestion.  The doctor I saw said I have bronchitis.  Given the cold weather we had to deal with while in Bryce we are not certain who to believe.


More to come...

Thank you for stopping by,
Mark

2 comments:

  1. Spectacular!!! :) You are an awesome guide through your travels and a bit of a science or geography teacher, as well. Thanks for sharing so much. Does Nicida post her photography on any social media? Hope you are both feeling back to normal.

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  2. Thank you for the response... No, Nicida does not have anything for photos yet. She is working on that. We are doing well, we are in the midst of planning our next trip.

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