Wednesday, January 8, 2025

Part 1, Late September – Start of trip; Channel Islands NP; Pinnacles NP

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The start

Anacapa Island
We are back on the road, truck, camper and the open road.  We have three reasons for this trip. - Nicida’s college friends are getting together to celebrate their 54th anniversary from college.  Their celebration will be in Sonoma, CA.  – We are escaping the continuous heat of TX. – This will be the swan song for our camper.  We have enjoyed using it for the past seven years.  We have had many great memories with our Hallmark Guanella.  A small sampling: southern UT three times, a 12-week drive to Alaska and back, 5 of the National Parks in CA.  As of this writing we have seen 39 of the 63 NPs having driven to 35.  The others we either had to fly to or take a boat.  At the end of this trip, we will have visited 42 NPs.  You can read all of our adventures on this blog, just look under the Archive, everything is sorted by year.

Don’t worry, we are not stopping our adventures.  We are upgrading to a larger truck camper.  We won’t be able to go to some of the remote places we have seen with our Hallmark.  Instead, we will able to go out for longer periods of time and under more extreme temperatures.

We have been cooking like mad for this trip.  We ended up with over 30 prepared dinners and another 20 prepared breakfasts.  Everything is packed and frozen in 1-quart bags, which fit quite nicely in the camper’s freezer.  We are also taking our heavy duty cooler, packing 18 dinners and several breakfasts keeping everything in a hard freeze using dry ice.  The dry ice has to be replenished every few days, especially given the 80 – 90 degree heat we will be facing.  In all, between the two freezers we have 24 dinners and 15 breakfasts.

On the road

It is already humid the morning we start our final packing.  On the road, we see the evidence of the wet spring and early summer.  Plants are looking healthier than when we left on our trip last year at this time.  Roads are clear of traffic.  Approaching Abeline the winds pick up, windmills are spinning, producing electricity.  We are staying in a hotel tonight.  It’s too hot to stay in our camper, without air conditioning.

High Desert RV Park
Our next stop is Albuquerque, our old stomping grounds.  A few friends are available for lunch or dinner, it turns out to be a weekday, so many are at work during our short stay.

While we are on the road, I am having challenges getting my new iPhone working.  My old one died two days before we left on this trip.  I scrambled to get an iPhone 15 before leaving.  Because the old one just died I was not able to transfer all the data to the new phone.  After several calls to Apple I have everything but my primary email account working.  I went online calling the first ‘Apple’ support number – you may see where I am going…  I spoke with a gentleman for several minutes being convinced that I have only one more opportunity to get everything working or my new phone will be locked out.  It will ONLY operate as a phone, no email, no texting.  Period….  But he can help me – just go out and buy an Apple gift card for $200.  
They will take the number off the card to verify I am who I say I am then they will be able to get my phone, with email up and running, then I will be refunded the $200.  Nicida and I looked at each other thinking…  The ‘apple’ guy provides directions to the closest store where we can purchase an Apple card, very helpful.  At the Walgreens counter we tell the cashier we want to buy this card, the little screen where you place your credit card to make the payment pops up a warning about scammers.  We stop right there, walking out of the store.  Speaking with the ‘apple’ guy again, he tells us a very prepared story about how the phone will no longer work.  We hang up.  Scam averted.  The next day I speak with a real Apple support person getting my email account back online, all is still well.

The next day we are on the way to Williams, AZ.  Being at high elevation the weather during the day is pleasantly cool.  We find an RV park with electricity for the night.  We speak with Joe and Cindy, fellow campers.  We compare notes on upgrades each of us has done to our campers.  Joe has many more ideas than I, mainly having to do with bungee cords.  Each is great, I am looking forward to getting back home to employ some of his ideas.


                                            Grand Canyon Steam Train

The railroad track for the tourist train traveling to the Grand Canyon runs behind our campsite.  As a special treat, a steam locomotive is actually pulling the cars on this day.  Normally, it only runs the first Saturday of each month, rather than a diesel engine.  (A note to you train enthusiasts.)  As the temperature drops to the 40’s we are glad to be in a campground with electricity so we can use the space heater brought from the house to keep us warm and cozy.  Unfortunately, the next morning we find the truck battery dead.  A quick jump from another camper gets us back on the road.

As we progress across Arizona, the temperatures stay cool, 60 ‘s – 70’s.  But that changes as we drop in elevation once we pass Kingman, AZ.  Lower elevation means higher temperatures, back up into the 90’s.  Approaching LA I am concerned about the smoke from the local wildfires in the area.  But we don’t see any on the way to Victorville, CA.  90 degree temperatures means another hotel. 

The truck starts normally the next morning.  We are off to visit relatives and friends today, before heading to Oxnard.  This is our first encounter of many, seeing $4.00+/gal gas.

Dropping into LA we see the smoke I was concerned about yesterday.  It is thick, thick enough that the skies are more gray/brown than blue.  We make our way around LA, slowly at times, at the designated speed other times.  After lunch, I program the Oxnard apartment address into the Garmin and find out it’s over 100 miles, and two hours to our destination.  I look at the distance certain that it must be a mistake.  I reprogram our destination getting the same result.  It’s going to be a long afternoon.

Channel Islands National Park

Approaching Oxnard, the smoke clears revealing blue skies.  Even closer, the blue skies disappear, low clouds take their place, the warm temperatures turn to damp 60 degree temperatures.  Jacket weather.  After checking in, we ride around finding where we catch the tour boat to the Anacapa Island, the smallest island one can tour of the Channel Island chain.  We also head into Ventura to find the battery place to have the truck battery checked and get an assessment.  The battery place closed 20 minutes earlier.  We will try again tomorrow.

Anacapa Island
The Channel Islands is one of the nine national parks in California.  There are a total of eight islands scattered along the California coast in Channel Islands National Park.  Four are grouped close together, with the Island Packers providing NPS regular tours of the four islands.  Tours go each day but not to every island.  The closest island is 13 miles from the coast.  We are interested in Anacapa because it can be easily hiked in a day.  The other islands are larger, each several miles wide and long.  Camping is allowed on each island but you have to bring everything with you, including water, and everything you bring, has to be carried back out.

The islands are totally separate from the continent.  With the exception of what humans have brought to the islands, the flora and fauna are unique, found nowhere else on earth.  Excavations of the islands have shown that native peoples have been on these islands as far back as 13,000 years.  Now the islands are protected as a National Park and the waters extending out six miles from each island are protected as National Marine Sanctuaries.


Kelp
We are up at 6 AM packing cameras, food, water, jackets and sunscreen.  We are not certain what to expect.  We were told by the tour guides last evening that the islands can be in bright sunshine, or under a heavy, gray blanket of clouds.  Stepping outside our apartment we are greeted by light mist from the dense clouds overhanging the coast.  We get our boarding pass and return pass, used to track that everyone that is scheduled to return is actually on the boat.  We head out to the beach to watch a dozen surfers ride the waves.  Sand Pipers dash up and down the shoreline, running from the waves as they come in, following the waves, looking for a meal, as the waves recede.  The taller ones have the advantage, not having to run quite as far or as fast as the shorter birds.


Anacapa Landing

We are on a full boat heading to Anacapa.  We slow to view the seals resting on a large channel buoy.  Some are lounging on the buoy, others are frolicking in the water.  Pelicans fly along our path, then peel off looking for a meal.  We are amazed that they can wave-slope soar only a few inches above the waves for hundreds of yards.  A pod of dolphins swim in front of and around us giving us a show of their swimming skills.  The California coast disappears into the low clouds and Anacapa island appears.  At the landing point we are surrounded on three sides by pelicans looking down on us.  The aroma of pelicans hangs in the air.  Our boat pulls up to the landing point but never ties off.  The boat engines keep pushing the boat into the landing spot as we disembark.  We meet our volunteer naturalist who will be leading a tour of the island.  First, we have to climb the 157 stairs from sea level to the top of the island.

We make several stops where our guide describes different aspects of the island; flora, fauna, geology, inhabitants.  Now, it is a sanctuary to all the flora and fauna.  Even now, work is going on to remove non-native plants that were brought to the island for the sheep that were once raised here.  We stop at several locations where we have spectacular views of the ocean crashing below.  We can hear seals barking over the sound of the crashing waves.  Our guide informs us that this is a good time of year to visit, all the baby birds have fledged so those remaining are not protective of their nests.  She demonstrates to us how we would have to constantly cover our heads with our hands and arms to protect ourselves from protective parents.

The official hike/tour finished, we stop for lunch then wander around the island for the views and a few more photos.  We do not want to miss the 330 boarding time.  Today the water is smooth in both directions allowing us to enjoy the ride.  We arrive back in the harbor then decide to visit the official NPS Channel Islands Visitor Center.  Afterwards we pick up dinner then head back to our room, worn out from the day-long trip.  Tomorrow we will get the battery checked, then on to Pinnacles NP.

It is cloudy, with occasional mist as we start the day.  Heading up to the Interstate Battery shop we find it open, and nobody in line.  We drive right up, explain our problem and the service man pulls out the hardware he needs to check the battery.  He determines that the battery does indeed need to be replaced.  Fifteen minutes later we are back on the road.  All is good.

The road all the way to San Luis Obispo is covered by heavy shapeless gray clouds.  It never gets above the low 60’s.  We climb up through the Questa Ridge, descending on the other side, the skies clear – no clouds in sight – and mid-70 degree temperatures.  Progressing north, large scale farming continues; strawberries, tomatoes, and broccoli, to name a few.  Vineyards grow in size, wrapping around hills.  When looking at the distant hills, along the rows of vines I am reminded of corduroy pants, raised fuzzy rows next to low clear rows.  Traffic greatly falls off as we exit 101, towards Pinnacles NP.  We make one more stop for gas, it keeps increasing in price as we continue our trip, this time $4.34/gallon.  The terrain changes again with small rolling hills covered by golden, dried grasses.  Lonesome green trees are scattered among the rolling hills.  Here the road follows the terrain, not like 101 where the land is recontoured for the road.

Pinnacles National Park

Arriving at Pinnacles NP we really don’t see any difference in the landscape.  We silently wonder what is special about this park.  Meeting one of the park volunteers we learn what makes this park special.  Only a small area of volcano driven terrain is at this location.  A portion of it is still down around northern Los Angeles where the volcano erupted 23 million years ago, near present-day Lancaster CA, 195 miles southeast of where we are.  Diving into geology, plate tectonics in particular, a portion of the volcano was/is on the American Plate, which is slowly moving south.  The Pinnacles part of the remaining volcano was/is on the Pacific Plate which is moving north.  The pinnacles are a combination of lava, granite, and a conglomeration of rocks glued together by pumice and soil.  We see as we hike on the pinnacles we are surrounded by sedimentary rock which has eroded, becoming the smoother, rolling hills we saw as we drove here.


The temperature as warmed a bit, low 90’s as we set up our campsite.  Large trees provide shade from the blazing sun.  On the hill behind our campsite we hear peeping, and leaves rustling.  We have to stop and really study the commotion.  We spot quail, what appears to be a family of them six to eight of them scurrying through the leaf litter looking for a meal.  Squirrels are adding to the rustling.  We have seen quail before, but not on this scale.  We also learn that quail can fly, I always through they were land based birds.  They may not fly far but they sure shot into a small tree seemingly escaping from something.  A bit later three deer wander on the same hillside looking for a meal.  Finally, as we are sitting at our table a family of three well-fed racoons scamper from the campsite next to us, into our site, not more than 10’ from both of us.  They continue on to our camper, giving is the once over to see if we have any food for them.  I try yelling and clapping my hands to scare them off, to no avail.  They keep on going to the next campsite in search of a meal.  We learn from the kids next to us that yesterday the raccoons got into their car eating whatever they could find.

We jump into the truck to tour the park.  Before we get out of the campground we spot a flock of 5 turkeys strutting down the campground road, like they own the place.  Finally, they head off into the brush turning to look at us, like they don’t approve of us being here.


The bald peaks of the Pinnacles are a stark contrast to the rolling hills we saw all around us on our drive to the park.  Tomorrow we will hike the ‘High Peaks Trail’ and the strenuous ‘Condor Gulch Trail’ to see the peaks close-up.

Overnight we have a hard time sleeping.  We are not used to sleeping in 40° temperatures.  Our fleece blanket and lightweight sleeping bag are not enough to keep us warm, serious cuddling went on conserving body heat.  Waking the next morning we turn on the camper’s furnace, leaving it on a few minutes, taking away the chill.  Afterward, I head out to the park bathroom.  As I walk across the open field I spot 40 black/brown bocce balls setting randomly in the field.  As I am trying to reason why these bocce balls are there, a few of them start moving by themselves.  This is even more startling.  Then, looking closer there are 40 quail that were sitting, probably watching me, before they took off.  Quite the scene.


                                                            'Bocce Balls'

We are on the Condor Gulch trail by 930.  The sun is already busy heating the rocks.  No clouds to help buffer the heat.  This trail takes us up 1,500’ in 2.5 miles.  By the time we get back to the camper we put on over five miles.

A Jay's Pantry
Pinnacles is one of the parks where condors were reintroduced to the wild, after becoming almost extinct.  They are seen here quite regularly, this trail in particular.  As we ascend, taking in the beauty of the rocks themselves we see birds soaring high above us.  Nicida pulls out her camera snapping a few images, both of us are certain they are condors.  The rocks making up the pinnacles are combinations of granite, lava and a conglomeration of rocks glued together by pumice and mud.  We continue to the peaks looking across at rocks jutting out of the ground and others seeming placed in that specific location.  

At the very top of the trail the CCC worked on cutting steps into the rock itself and placing piping as handrails assisting us on our climb.  As afternoon wears on we start our descent back to the truck.  We feel the cool of the trail blocked from the sun.  We also feel the heat radiating at us from below where the sun has been beating on the rocks all day long.  We would not want to be here during the summer.



We stop at the visitor center to show images of the birds, hopefully condors, Nicida shot.  One of the park service bird experts looks at a few of her images, “Turkey vultures”, she says.  Nicida has a few more images to view once we get home, she’s hoping to have at least one condor.  Back at our campsite our feet thank us as we remove our hiking boots.  Relaxed, we make dinner, I remain outside a bit more hearing more rustling going on around me.  This time, the full family of nine raccoons, with several small ones, wander past me, inspect the camper again, then head on to the next campsite.  Tomorrow on to San Francisco.

Thank you for stopping by,

Mark

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