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“Where do you want to hike???” “I don’t know where do you want to
hike???” Sometimes that’s how our hiking
discussions start, other times we already have something in mind. We put this question to the new hiker in our
mini-hiking group, Nicida. It is a bit
unfair to do this because she is relatively new to the area. Laurie and I have been hiking/exploring for
better than the past year always looking for something different. “How about the Valles Caldera?” Valles Caldera (VC) it is.
I look up information on the VC’s website. It has become part of the National Park
Service since I was here last so I want to see what has changed.
There is still the limited number of back road passes which
means get there early to assure you will be able to tour the back country. I leave my clock radio set for the 4:56 wake
up time for work so I can make it to Bernalillo in time for our departure. We rendezvous at Bernalillo leaving about 6:45
to get there shortly after the park opens.
Since we are visiting on a Saturday I am not certain what kind of crowd
to expect.
On the way we saw smoke over one of the canyons west of the
Jemez Pueblo. Eventually it got thick
enough that we could smell it. There
were no fire trucks or any extra activity going on as we passed so we assumed everything
was under control. The smoke was still present
when we returned from our day of hiking.
A few miles from the entrance to the VC we pass the burned
out area from the Cajete fire earlier this year. Trees and the ground are blackened on both
sides of the road. The smell of charred
wood is still in the air as we pass what appears to be the worst of the fire.
There are a number of cars in the visitor center parking lot
as we arrive. Worse than that there is a
line of people out the door waiting…. As
we wait in line we find out that the National Park Service is celebrating its
birthday. Most of the people are here
for the celebration. It did pay to
arrive early, by the time we finished registering, the line of people wanting
passes for the backcountry was out the door.
We mentioned our plans to the ranger but before leaving we ask
what he suggests. The Valle and/or Cerro
Seco trail. There is a small pond in the
valley and a spectacular view from the top of the small caldera. I had seen this on the map but never explored
it on my previous visits.
Along our drive in we are escorted by dozens of blue
birds. Once we pass one flock another
takes its place. We also see three or
four fairly well fed coyotes in different valleys making up the VC. Prairie dogs also appear along the road
squeaking warnings of our encroachment. Dropping
into another valley we spot three bull elk, each with a huge set of antlers. They spot us then bolt across the valley
disappearing into the forest. They ran
with ease. Their running reminded me of
watching Usain Bolt of Jamaica running the 100m dash; running but not really
having to work at it. I just wonder at
how an elk with a big rack of antlers is able to run into the woods and not get
tangled up in the trees. Sorry no photos
as I was driving.
The valley is green; the monsoons along with cooler
temperatures have been kind to the grasses carpeting the valley. The San Antonio Creek, at the northern border
of the VC, is flowing clear. We are among
the first to arrive at the northern valley of the caldera. One other car is here; a woman is busy
setting up an easel to paint her scene of choice. I wouldn’t want to have to make that choice; every
scene would need painting.
There are a few clouds as we arrive at the trailhead. The trail is an old road still used by the
NPS to maintain the park. The trail is
flat as we start our trek into the mountains.
Once we leave the valley the trail is a continuous, but gradual, two
mile climb to a saddle presenting multiple trails for our choosing. We continue on the higher road along Cerro
Seco, my GPS showing we will be rewarded with a view of a pond from the trail. The NPS has been busy clearing the
forest. There are piles of freshly cut
trees and brush waiting to be taken care of.
The remaining forest is open of the dense underbrush existing in other
parts of the forest. As we approach an
impromptu garden of Bee Balm we can hear the flowers buzzing with bees. We also see butterflies flitting back and
forth; all are taking in nectar.
Farther along the trail we spy the Valle Seco pond. Diverting from the trail we make our way to
the pond for a closer view. We have to
stop to take in the idyllic scene; grasses in the foreground, the far side of
the pond lined with pines and a meadow leading to more forest, with a mountain
top protruding into puffy clouds. The
only thing marring the scene is the occasional faint sound of a distant chainsaw
thinning trees in a different part of the valley.
Taking the Valle Seco trail back to the saddle we hear
rolling thunder and see dark gray clouds coming our way. Fortunately each of us brought our rain gear;
as long as there isn’t a heavy downpour we are prepared. The clouds thicken, growing darker, with
accompanying rumbles of thunder as we continue our hike back to the truck. Finally a few drops descend becoming heavy
enough for us to break out or rain gear.
It showers on us for several minutes before the storm rolls past. A few minutes later we are removing our rain
gear as we start sweating under the reappearance of the hot sun.
Arriving at the truck I decide I need to continue on the
road to the northwest corner of the park.
Byron, Mark and I have been on the other side of the fence several times
fishing and photographing the San Antonio Creek; I need to see how far the road
goes. Along the way there are large
fenced off areas where the NPS is working to establish streamside
habitats. Continuing west, the road
climbs above the familiar valley floor dodging in and out of small stands of
trees finally arriving at large locked gate.
We admire the view before turning back to another favorite spot for a
different perspective of the valley floor.
Two miles east of the Valle Seco trailhead there is a small
knoll in the center of the valley which provides a splendid view of the twists
and turns of the San Antonio creek winding its way through the valley. There is also a cabin at the base of the hill
which has a grand view of the creek and open valley.
Our last stop is as far as we can drive towards the
headwaters of the San Antonio Creek.
There are several fly fishers here going for the amazingly large trout
in this narrow stream. We follow along
the stream with the intent of having lunch in a small valley formed by another
knoll on one side of the stream and a forested hill opposite. Clouds continue to roll by as we enjoy our lunch;
none of them look threatening so we enjoy a leisurely lunch.
With a speed limit of 25 it takes us about a half hour to
get back to the visitor center.
Throughout the day I think we saw a dozen cars in the backcountry.
The Park celebration finished sometime
earlier but there were still a few visitors milling around. We check back in with the Ranger that
suggested the Seco trail thanking him for the suggestion. He was somewhat surprised at our mention of
seeing the pond since that made our hike around six miles.
We are already planning what trail to hike on our next trip.
It was a good day.
Thank you for stopping by.
Mark
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